What It’s Like to Swim with Whale Sharks at Ningaloo Reef
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I hadn’t expected to be floating beside the largest fish in the ocean. But here I was, somewhere off the coast of Exmouth, staring at the subtle white spots drifting beneath the turquoise surface. It was whale shark season in Ningaloo Reef—and everything else could wait.
Every March to July, this part of Western Australia becomes one of the few places in the world where you can swim responsibly with these gentle giants. What brings them here? The coastal stretch of Ningaloo Reef is one of the longest fringing coral reefs in the world, and it’s full of plankton-rich water during coral spawning. For the whale sharks, it’s a buffet. For solo travelers like me, it’s a rare kind of stillness—shared with a creature ten meters long.
I joined one of the certified operators from Exmouth for a full-day trip. After a quick snorkel test near the reef, we were off—spotter planes helping locate the whale sharks in real time. When it was my group’s turn, we slid into the water, swam gently to keep pace, and watched in quiet awe. The whale shark moved steadily forward, unconcerned, carrying a whole ecosystem with it—remoras, cleaner fish, shadows. A few minutes later, it was gone.
Back on the boat, we shared quick stories over sandwiches and sunblock, then stopped to swim again. In between, we spotted sea turtles and rays gliding near the reef, with coral fans just below the surface.
If you’re planning to go, Exmouth is your main hub. You can fly in from Perth (around two hours), or take a slow road trip north, stopping along the Indian Ocean coast. Either way, make sure you clear a full day for the tour—and bring good sun protection. I carried everything I needed in a 20L expandable backpack: lightweight, waterproof,towel, dry change, and my small underwater camera.